Koza: A special place in Okinawa City | Endless Summer Okinawa is a guesthouse in Koza

沖縄県沖縄市の“コザ”とは

Okinawa City, the second largest city on the main island of Okinawa after Naha City, is located in the central part of the island.
In Okinawa City, “Koza” is a popular name used by locals to refer to the commercial and cultural area from Koza Crossroads in the city center to the areas around Goya and Nakanomachi.
As you can see from the names of public facilities such as Koza High School, Koza Shinkin Bank, and Koza Sports Park, “Koza” is a commonly recognized place name rooted in the local community.
However, “Koza” does not exist as an administrative address and is only used as a nickname.

Okinawa City was born in 1974 from the merger of Koza City and Misato Village, but the name “Koza” has been used long before that, at least since the war.
There are various theories about its origin, but the most popular one is that when the US military landed on the main island, they mistakenly wrote “KOZA” on the strategic map they created, confusing the villages of Goya in Goeku Village and Koja in Misato Village.
This led the general public to eventually call the area “Koza.”

When you learn about this history, you can’t help but feel that the name itself carries the twisted relationship between Okinawa and America.
However, it’s just a name, and whatever its origin, Koza is Koza.
After the war, the people of the area nurtured affection for the name, revitalized the town, and built their own unique culture.

Koza’s History

The Ryukyu Kingdom Period: Goeku Castle (locally known as “Giiku Gushiku”), built by the royal family in Goeku, a strategic point in the central region, can be found in historical documents from around the mid-15th century. It was a high-status castle under the direct control of the royal family, and it is said that great kings in Ryukyu history, such as King Sho Taikyu, resided there. It was destroyed in the Battle of Okinawa (currently, the castle ruins are located in the park in front of the castle).
March 1945: The Battle of Okinawa began, and about 5,300 people, equivalent to one-third of the population of 20,000, were sacrificed.
Post-War Period: The area around the current Kadena Air Base was a peaceful settlement and farmland, but it was seized by the Japanese military during the war.
After the war, the base was expanded by the US military, and people were forced to evacuate.
However, at the same time, commerce and entertainment culture for soldiers grew, and the town achieved remarkable development.
It is said that about 60% of Koza’s population in the 1950s was an inflow, supporting the base economy.
The population increased rapidly in the 1960s, approaching 60,000 just before the reversion to the mainland.
June 1956: Goeku Village was renamed Koza Village, and in July it was elevated to city status, giving birth to Koza City.
December 1970: The Koza riot (Koza uprising) occurred.
The Koza Riot
The Koza Riot, which occurred in the early hours of December 20, 1970, was a watershed moment in Okinawa’s history.
Approximately 5,000 Okinawans gathered near Gate Street and the Koza intersection, setting fire to around 80 vehicles owned by U.S. military personnel.
The immediate trigger for this outburst of anger was a traffic accident where a U.S. soldier’s vehicle hit an Okinawan pedestrian.
However, this incident was merely the spark that ignited long-simmering resentment towards the U.S. military’s presence and its perceived disregard for the rights of the Okinawan people. This resentment had been fueled by a series of incidents, including the hit-and-run death of a woman in Itoman by a U.S. soldier earlier that year. For many Okinawans, these events were symbols of the injustices they faced under U.S. rule.
April 1974: Koza City merged with Misato Village, and the current Okinawa City was born.
Present: With the slogans of “Eisa Town,” “International Cultural Tourism City,” “Sports Convention City,” and “Music Town Concept,” Koza is disseminating its unique Okinawan Champuru culture. Okinawa City has a population of approximately 140,000 (as of 2024), making it the second largest city in Okinawa after Naha City.

Koza is a mecca of music.

The symbol of the Koza riot appears many times in the story of “Uchinanchu who resist.”
We, especially those who are critical of the national power of Japan and the United States, talk about this riot very romantically. We find in it the possibility of political resistance, struggle, or even “revolution.” Here, “angry Uchinanchu” appears instead of the most common “
gentle and warm Uchinanchu.”
— From “First Okinawa” by Masahiko Kishi (Shinyosha)

Following Professor Kishi’s observations, it’s clear that Okinawa’s rock music was deeply intertwined with the island’s social and political climate.
While some may see Okinawa’s anger as an idealized image imposed by mainland intellectuals, the energy born from the Koza riot undeniably ignited a powerful wave of rock music. This connection between social unrest and rock ‘n’ roll is perhaps unparalleled in Japan, with Okinawa standing as a unique example.

Even after Okinawa’s reversion to Japanese control, Kadena Air Base remained a crucial hub for the U.S. military, particularly during the Vietnam and Korean Wars. In Koza, musicians played nightly for American soldiers facing the harsh reality of imminent deployment. These performances were charged with tension, reflecting the soldiers’ precarious situation and the musicians’ own feelings about the war and its impact on Okinawa.

Against this backdrop, iconic Okinawan rock bands like Purple and Condition Green emerged from Koza.
“Condition Green” refers to a state of heightened alert issued by the U.S. military. It was also declared during the Koza riot.
Additionally, Koza native Rin-ken Band, led by the charismatic Teruya Rinken, pioneered a unique fusion of traditional Okinawan instruments like the shamisen and Okinawan drums with the energy of jazz and rock. Formed in 1977, they continue to embody the rebellious spirit of Okinawan rock through their electrifying live performances.

“Director Yoichi Sai’s 1989 film “A Sign Days” vividly depicts the “youth of Koza” from the late 1960s to the reversion to mainland Japan.”

This rich musical environment, nurtured by local live music venues and traditional folk bars, has cemented Koza’s reputation as a music mecca throughout Japan. In 2006, the city launched the “Music Town Initiative,” culminating in the opening of the core complex music facility,
“Koza Music Town Otoichiba,” a landmark at the Koza intersection.

Kozas allure: A town where you can feel the Okinawan spirit

The relationship between Naha City and Okinawa City is said to be similar to the relationship between the mainland and Okinawa.
There are many places in Naha where you can feel the Okinawan atmosphere if you step into the back streets,
but few people would go out of their way to visit the government district or business district of Naha just to feel the Okinawan atmosphere.
Moreover, you cannot understand the essence of the Okinawan economy just by window-shopping at souvenir shops on Kokusai Street.

In Koza,if you have tea or go shopping in the shopping district, you should be able to hear the unadorned voices of the people who live in Koza.
If you spend time in a comfortable izakaya, you may feel the warm comfort unique to Okinawa.
Your accommodation is right in the middle of Koza. Please visit the town of Koza.

Koza, which has Koza Athletic Park and Okinawa Arena, is also a popular venue for sporting events.
It is also a land that is enthusiastic about inheriting Okinawa’s folk performing arts, including the Eisa Festival, which has been held since 1956.
You should be able to feel not only the exotic atmosphere of the base town but also the unique atmosphere of Okinawa.
The charm of Okinawa, which cannot be easily defined, such as the local and American “chanpuru” culture, is here in Koza!